Who needs this? Perhaps I'm the only one who needs it, but if you do need it, here's how I did it. What is it ?

We have a wireless doorbell that hangs in a room at the back of the house. There are two walls between the outside button transmitter and the wireless receiver. We installed a temporary fence with a gate in the back yard (to keep the dogs in the yard) so I had to move the doorbell button transmitter to the outside of the gate. The total distance between the transmitter and reciever was only 25 feet but the signal has to travel through the two walls. Sometimes the doorbell worked and sometimes it didn't. I never knew when someone was standing outside pushing the button, while no signal was reaching the transmiter.

Then the time came to install a permanent fence, which would move the gate and our wireless doorbell button to about 100 feet from the reciever. Documentation said the wireless doorbell should work for 100 to 150 feet but I knew that if I had trouble getting a consistent signal at 25 feet, it certainly wouldn't be aceptable at 100 feet. So I improvised, and it works.

So, I moved the transmitter button to the inside of the enclosed porch. It works fine from that distance which is about 10 feet from the reciever. All I needed to do then, was to make a way to trigger the transmitter button from any distance.

First I removed the small 12VDC battery from the transmitter enclosure. Then I soldered short wires to the positive and  negative contacts of its battery holder - NOT soldering to the BATTERY - soldering wires to the battery holder contacts
(don't overheat these battery holder contacts; they will come unsoldered from the circuit board). 

Next I modified the transmitter to keep the button depressed at all times. To do that, I simply rolled up a little bit of electrical tape and jammed it inside between the button and the cover. That keeps the button depressed full time.

So I now had: a transmitter with it's button pressed full time, no battery inside the cover, and positive and negative wires sticking out of the cover. If I connected a momentary 12VDC source to the positive and negative wires, the transmitter should sound my wireless doorbell consistently, and it does. 

Need to get a wireless signal from a remote location, perhaps an outdoor  gate, but the remote location is too far away from the reciever? Here is how I shortened the distance that our transmitted signal has to travel to activate the reciever.  

I could have installed a wired doorbell and solved the problem but ... that would require doing all the things that a wireless doorbell is designed to avoid, such as drilling holes through walls, stringing wire on the surface of walls inside the house and finding a convenient, hidden location to install the transformer. I certainly didn't want to get into a major project such as that, especially since I already owned the wireless doorbell. What I really wanted was to activate the wireless doorbell from the remote location and have the transmitter button located close enough to the reciever that I was assured that the signal was strong enough to consistently activate the reciever. 

To furnish more than adequate power, I bought a battery holder that holds eight 1.5 volts "AA" batteries which furnishes a total of 12VDC. The battery holder and it's companion 'snap on' connector cost me a few cents over $3.00. That made a good 12VDC battery pack.

I secured the transmitter button and the battery pack to a small block of wood, for easy mounting at any location.

I soldered the black negative wire from the battery pack permanently to the transmitter negative wire.

Then I ran a 4 conductor cable from the battery pack, out to the new gate and connected the red wire (the positive 'hot' wire) from the battery pack to one terminal of a push button doorbell switch and to one terminal of a magnetic door
switch, which I had previously mounted on the gatepost. 

I connected a second wire (a 'hot' return wire) from the cable to the other terminal of the doorbell switch. The 'house' end of that return wire connects to the positive wire of the indoor transmitter switch. So a push of the remotely located 
doorbell switch would furnish momentary positive current to the transmitter switch (which has the permanently closed push button as described above).

The magnetic switch on the gate needed it's own return 'hot' wire, because when someone was doing yard work or unloading several packages from a vehicle and repeatedly opening the gate, the frequent sounding of the doorbell was irritating. So I connected a third wire (from the 4 conductor cable) to the empty terminal on the magnetic switch
to separate it's positive return wire from the doorbell push button return wire. On this third wire, inside the house, I placed a simple on/off switch and joined it to the positive wire that controlls the transmitter. So each remote switch uses the same input power supply wire but a separate return wire This allows the doorbell push button to always work while the gate switch can be turned OFF or ON. 

NOTE: the magnetic door switch must be open when no magnet is near it. Momentary switch closure occurs when
the magnet on the gate passes over the switch on the gatepost. The magnet on the gate must be positioned correctly in order to provide a momentary closure of the switch as the gate swings open. Positioning of the magnet will take some trial and error.

A simple, rough diagram is on the next page.
January 30, 2007.
May 9, 2008.

This Web site is authored and maintained by Howard D. Dickens (Doug) and constructed using Web Studio. Copyright © 2007-2008.

Transmitter button switch.
Wireless doorbell receiver.
Remote Switches.
Indoor batteries,
Transmitter switch,
Gate on/off switch.

Public Notice: there are several handyman  do-it-yourself  items on this Web site that require some care when using them or the tools and/or electricity when constructing them. I offer my ideas freely and if you use any of these ideas you are responsible for all aspects of that use. If you attempt to construct and/or use any of these items, you do so at your own risk.  Thank you, Doug Dickens.

NOTE: April 2, 2008. Several months ago I added a junk box 120VAC to 12VDC power supply instead of batteries and enclosed the transmitter/power supply in a plastic box. It's now permanent
and works great. Later: I've added a photo of the transmitter/power supply box on the next page.
NOTE: May 9, 2008. We have used this rig for over a year and a half and we have become so accustomed to the gate alarm alerting us each time the gate is opened that we feel unprotected when it's turned off - so it's seldom turned off except for bringing our groceries in or doing some outside work that requires several trips in and out the gate.
Using wire to extend the range of a wireless doorbell.